event photographer in los angeles

Event Photography Tips: Putting It All Together to Maximize Your Coverage!

I hope you find these event photography tips helpful. They are based on over 10 years of professional experience as a leading event photographer in Los Angeles. These event photography tips and tricks have mostly been developed through practice and developing habits, but I also spend a great deal of time working on my craft. I am always trying to improve my event photography and I hope these help you do the same!

My Conclusions on how to Maximize Your Event Photography Coverage.

Connecting the dots, you can see how all of these tips are used in unison: By staying present, reading the room, and following the energy, I am able to gravitate toward areas of an event in which lots of action is going to happen. By reading people’s eyes, I am able to predict who is about to smile and pre visualize my shot as I move into position, all while pre selecting my autofocus point before the camera hits my eye. By shooting with two eyes open, I am able to time my shot and already know where my next shot is going to be… then I repeat. I spend a lot of time thinking about how I can improve my event photography. It is important to me to always stay engaged with my craft and never settle. This has allowed me to constantly improve at event photography and I hope my tips help you on your own journey.

Event Photography Tip #1 Pre Select Your Focal Point.

When capturing a moment as an event photographer, rather than waiting for the viewfinder to reach your eye, consider where the point of focus will be in your composition and use your controller to set it. With practice this becomes intuitive. Keep in mind, that with evolving technology, this tip may become less or even irrelevant. Sony's eye AF, is a good example of technology that may replace the skill of pre-selecting your autofocus point. Also, as I am currently experimenting with new cameras, I want to mention that the delay in which the viewfinder activates in mirrorless cameras has been a challenge for me, in some cases preventing me from pre-selecting my focus point before looking through the viewfinder.

Event Photography Tip #2 Photograph With Both Eyes.

While one eye frames the shot, use your other eye to monitor the action. This technique improves your timing and you’re able to monitor the space while still framing a potential image. When covering an event, the goal should be to both get as much coverage as possible, but also to make sure each image is a quality one.

Event Photography Tip #3 Read the Room. Follow the Energy.

This is not hocus-pocus. Do not overthink it. Whether at an event or anywhere for that matter, there is always energy. There are plenty of auditory cues that give away where the energy is but there may be things that give it away that you are not even conscious of.

Event Photography Tip #4. Predict Smiles.

Have you learned to follow the energy? Good. Now it's time to predict a smile. watch the eyes and anticipate the pause- that is when you should be making your photograph. Of all my tips, I think your ability to implement this one may largely come down to personality traits. Not everyone will have as easy of a time predicting a smile. I do think that with practice, anyone can improve, but this is a skill highly determined by one's empathy.

Event Photography Tip #5. Time Your Shot Ahead of the Peak of Action.

You have a delay. Your motor skills have a delay. Your camera has a delay. Because of this, it is essential that you time your shot right before the peak of action. This is a tricky one. Of course shooting a burst of shots with a camera with a high FPS would help, but if your goal is to improve on your skills as an event photographer, it’s well worth it to practice this.

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45 professional event photography tips in 15 minutes

In this video, I decided to try something a bit different and just let the camera roll to see how many tips I could come up with before I got tired or ran out of tips. I got tired. I had a lot of fun making this one, so I hope you enjoy watching it as much as I did making it!

1. Hold your camera loosely 2. Hook your camera with your fingers 3. Shoot with both eyes 4. use your right eye to frame your shot 5. Use your left eye to time your action 6. Set your camera up so that you do not need to go into the menus. 7. How I set-up my ISO controls 8. Choosing a marketing strategy 9. Old vs new social media platforms 10. retaining clients 11. Don't obsess over gear 12. 5% rule 13. Switching brands 14. Remember this is a business 15. Every other upgrade cycle 16. experimenting with lenses 17. focussing on bread and butter gear 18. engaging with your craft 19. Don't cheap out on stuff like flash or memory cards 20. using two camera bodies 21. batteries and chargers 22. overcoming limitations 23. networking with your peers 24. don't think of your competitors as opponents 25. bring food to a job or get good at fasting 26. never stop learning 27. staying engaged with your craft 28. photographing everyone, focussing on VIPS 29. "over covering" VIPs 30. scanning a room 31. listen for the life of the party 32. don't over linger on a person 33. always shoot with intention 34. Generate 1:1 previews in Lightroom 35. Respect the craft and the profession 36. take and modify what you learn from a mentor 37. shoot often - muscle memory 38. tune out the noise 39. don't limit your sources of inspiration 40. question conventions - find your own way 41. make sure you're insured 42. live below your beans 43. don't depend entirely on photography for your income 44 always over dress over under dressing 45. you don't always need to wear black .

Event photography with a 50mm Lens

In this video, I answer the commonly googled phrase: “Event Photography with a 50mm Lens.

Can you use a 50mm lens to shoot events?

The short answer is yes, of course. It is important to remember that there are no “correct” lenses to use when shooting an event. On my Youtube channel and this blog, I have repeatedly said that you only need two lenses to get the job done as an event photographer: that would be a 24-70mm lens and a 70-200mm lens. Sure, you will probably want something wider than 24mm to round off your kit, bu you would most likely be able to make do. So why bother with a 50mm lens? Read on…

Why would you use a 50mm at events?

Using a 50mm lens at an event does have advantages.

First lets talk about the purely technical and most obvious:

While a 24-70mm and a 70-200mm lens would cover your bases in regards to focal length, or field of view, they are not going to be as effective in low light as a prime lens would be. In general, those lenses tend to max out at an aperture of f2.8, with few exceptions. Meanwhile, prime lenses (even of the most affordable varieties) tend to max out at at-least f1.8. This improvement in low light gathering ability can make a significant difference when shooting in especially low light.

Why else might you choose to shoot an event with a 50mm lens?

First, in most cases, using a 50mm lens is going to result in a much lighter kit. There are several advantages to this, not just that you won’t get fatigued. Personally, I enjoy the lighter (and smaller) kit when I’m working through tight crowds. I find that I am personally able to maneuver better and when I poke my lens through tight crowds, like when I shoot over someone’s shoulder, I am significantly less intrusive.

Second, I enjoy using a fixed focal length because I know exactly what my field of view is before I raise my camera to my eye. Through repetition, I have learned to see in focal lengths, which means I know exactly how many feet forward or backward I need to take to get the shot I am pre visualizing.

Third, a 50mm focal length is considered “normal.” What this means is that it approximately represents the field of view of the human. There is some debate on how accurate this statement is, but what is not debatable is that a 50mm lens does not have distortion- either barrel or pin cushion.

Can you photograph an event with just a 50mm lens?

Of course you can shoot an event with just a 50mm lens, but I would not necessarily recommend it. It will all depend on the demands of the job. If, for example, you need to photograph a speaker on stage, you simply just might not have the reach with a 50mm lens to do so. However, if you are photographing a party as a roaming photographer, with plenty of space to work in, it might be sufficient. Personally, I plan on experimenting with this in the future and sharing my results. Stay tuned!

Do I use a 50mm lens when shooting events?

Currently, I use a 50mm lens to shoot my events, but in a limited way. As I shared in the above video, I have a Canon RF 1.2 lens, but do not have a body to shoot it on. I do however from time to time adapt vintage lenses to my Canon 5diii. I mostly use a Pentax 50mm SMC 1.2, which I absolutely love. It’s full of character, has a wide maximum aperture, and has a special way of rendering color (warm and earth toned). However, being a manually focussed lens, it’s quite difficult to use. I love the challenge, but I look forward to being able to use a more functional 50mm lens for my event work.

A few personal thoughts on using a 50mm lens at events.

Early in my career, I learned to love the look of tightly framed shots of people, with a telephoto lens, at a maximum aperture. It is a look long associated with professional photography. But while I like it, I do think it can easily be over done.

The TV show Lost comes to mind: I used to find its use of long lenses and tightly framed shots to be an indication of a higher production value than what was normal for the time. But now, I actually find it quite disorienting. Shots like these lend …

The TV show Lost comes to mind: I used to find its use of long lenses and tightly framed shots to be an indication of a higher production value than what was normal for the time. But now, I actually find it quite disorienting. Shots like these lend themselves to what is a very human story, but at times this is done at the expense of offering any real sense of space when not balanced with a wider field of view. But even when Lost does widen its field of view, it is usually done by backing up further with a long lens, still resulting in a compressed look. By the way, I also think this is done to hide the fact that locations are often being reused.

These days I favor a more “natural” look with my photography. I find that a 50mm lens with its well balanced field of view and lack of distortion does the trick.


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Starting a Photography Business Today in 2021

I was recently asked by a subscriber of mine on Youtube to tackle the subject of what I would do differently if I started my photography business today, in 2020. He was mostly referring to the particulate climate we’re in (that of a pandemic) - which I do address - but I decided I would use the opportunity to also address what I would do differently with the knowledge that comes with over 10 years in business.

The First Thing I Would Do Differently: Not Resist

As much as I want to view myself as a beautiful and unique snowflake, in the end of the day, I’m you’re typical artist: I’m idealistic; fiercely independent; despise selling myself or putting myself out there; and perhaps worst of all: I do not naturally enjoy the business side of running a photography business. Eventually I overcame much of this, but I am still dealing with the consequences of my early resistance to this day.

When I started my photography business journey, I held onto certain ideals such as word of mouth being all I needed to succeed. And to tell you the truth, for many years it really was. Early on all of my work came from referrals, but not all of them were exactly “organic.” You see, I recognized the power of a then emerging platform, Yelp. True, Yelp is just another form of referrals in a sense, but what this falsely reinforced was that in the end referrals were all I needed. The truth is that most of my early success was due to getting on Yelp early and recognizing its value before most other photographers. At a time when the average photographer in Los Angeles seemed to have 6-9 five star reviews, I had over 100. Since then, competition has increased, Yelp now filters out most of my reviews with their algorithms, and they have (but will not admit) taken punitive actions against me for refusing to participate in their paid services. Eventually work from Yelp completely dried up because of this. That and my full boar pivot into exclusively shooting events meant that outside of referrals, I had no significant source of work.

So while I was smart enough to recognize the power of an emerging platform, I was not smart enough to get out of my own way and follow the same formula with other emerging platforms.

What Are the Lessons I Learned From This?

First, do not put all your eggs in one basket. Second, get in early! The more mature a platform, the harder it is going to be to succeed on it. I am not saying there is no value in them, just that it will be a tougher road getting traction.

What I Do Differently Today

I now have a no stone unturned policy. I try to at least have an account on all major platforms, but that has less to do with being active on every platform and more to do with my overall SEO strategy- which of course includes generating backlinks to my website. I also especially try to get in early on new aps and services.

I’ve learned a lot, but I still make mistakes. I knew Tik Tok would be huge the week it came out. I didn’t want to make the same mistake of not getting on it early, but in the end I didn’t feel the platform was quite right for me. That is because short content is king on Tik Tok- quite the opposite of the long and thoughtful content I try to produce. But perhaps I should have further explored the platform before concluding it wasn’t a good fit. But at the same time - and this is important - you do not need to be on every single platform there is: choosing the platforms that work for you, while being sure you’re not putting all your eggs in one basket, is probably the best general advice I can give.

The Second Thing I Would do Differently if I Were Starting My Photography Business Today

When I first started my career as a professional photographer, I shot weddings. Not because I especially love weddings or because I wanted to be a “wedding photographer” per se. I started off shooting weddings because it was simply easy to get into. I never really thought hard on the photography I pursued. I just engaged in the hustle and figured it out. Now that’s not entirely a bad thing. I think through exposure to different types of photography, you can better figure out what it is you’re really interested in. Since I don’t think I fully knew what I wanted to shoot, I just got into whatever I could. Personally for me, I have more mental clarity that way. I’m not a fan of overthinking, so perhaps I needed to go through the process of trying different types of photography out before settling on one.

Ultimately you may need to do the same. But there is a lesson I can impart upon you and that is to think about what you want to pursue in a holistic manner. I encourage you to consider not just your interest in the type of photography you like, but the industry involved in that genre of photography and how it fits into your personality type and lifestyle. If, for example, you love fashion, but don’t like posing people, then perhaps fashion photography is not for you. Wedding photographers work much more intimately and in a more personal manner with their clients than corporate event photographers do.

You get the idea.

What I found is that for me, event photography was what I was most suited to because:

  1. I really enjoy the process of being there to document. And while I do not mind interacting with and posing people I prefer the level of presence I achieve when solely documenting what’s in front of me (not to say that there are not posed group shots sprinkled into my event work).

  2. I don’t like editing and event photography requires less of it.

  3. Events require less back and forth between me and my client and tend to be more straight forward than a lot of other genres of photography.

Starting a Photography Business During a Pandemic

If you are just starting out, there is a lot you can do to work on your business without actually getting paid to shoot anything. You do not need to be a bonafide and hired event photographer to shoot events. A lot of things you do in your life are technically events: going to shows, birthday parties, street performances, and more can all be treated as an event. For more on this, I recommend taking a look at the following videos:

Building an Event Photography Portfolio

Running a Photography Business During a Pandemic

The last bit of advice I have is that you work harder than ever. While many photographers may be looking to jump ship and give up, my advice is for you to work harder than ever. That way you will be in a stronger position than before when the dust settles. Personally, I work harder when I’m shooting less than when I’m shooting often.


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Los Angeles Party Photographer 40th Birthday Party

Below are just a few of my favorite images from a recent birthday party I photographed at Elevate Lounge. I think it is a good example of how I capture lively candid photography in a natural and unobtrusive way. I have worked extensively at my craft to balance my ambient and strobe light so that my photography looks like what it was like to be there live.

If you’re interested in seeing more of my work from this event, check out the video below on how I shot it. This is also a great video for other event photographers, both working and aspiring, to see how I cover birthday parties in low light.

Los Angeles Event Photographers Tips on Being a Second Photographer

Getting Started as a Second Photographer

The first challenge for anyone looking to become a professional photographer is developing a portfolio. As I discuss in my complete event photography guide, you need a photography portfolio to get work but you need work to build a photography portfolio.

You do not need to work for free in order to build a portfolio. Rather, my advice is to build your portfolio around the things you are already doing in your life. An event can be just about anything including: street fairs, festivals, music events, birthday parties, etc. But although this will help you build a portfolio, second shooting has its own benefits.

How I Got Started as a Second Shooter

When I first moved back to Los Angeles and decided to make my passion my profession, I was faced with the common dilemma of not having the portfolio I needed to start doing professional work while needing to do professional work in order to build that portfolio. Most of my time during and after college was spent making fine art photography. I was confident in my knowledge of photography, but knew better than to be presumptuous and assume that it would 100% equip me for professional work. In fact I was already teaching photography, so I knew my stuff. When I decided to pursue professional work, the photography market was not as over saturated as it is today. I knew wedding photography was an easy field to get into, so I decided to pursue it. I knew that the best way to learn was by doing and I wanted to learn the trade from someone with experience. But to even second shoot, I knew I needed a portfolio. So what did I do? I shot a wedding for just about free. No joke, I think I charged about $180 just to cover my rentals- I didn’t even have all the gear I needed yet!  But that one wedding I essentially shot for free landed me a second shooting job with the largest wedding studio in Los Angeles at the time. It was my big break in what was quite honestly a very difficult time for anyone: It was 2008 in the height of the great recession.

How Did I Make that Happen?

I’ll be the first to admit I am not a very organized person. But I was serious about pursuing a career as a photographer. So what I did, was make an excel sheet of every wedding photographer In Los Angeles that I could find. In it, I included the name of the studio, the name of the contact person, their contact info, and any notes I had on them. I then proceeded to email each of them and follow up with a phone call. Sadly, very few called me back and pretty much none of them were looking to even hire an assistant. However, a couple of them referred me to the studio that  had the largest segment of the market at the time. So I gave them a call thinking that they would of course blow me off. Strikingly, the next day I got a call! I set an interview, showed up in a suit, shared my limited wedding portfolio, and was hired on the spot! I remember them telling me something like, “well, we have like 100 people interested in a job with us, but you seem good to us.” Not only did they bring me on on the spot, but it was as a second shooter, not an assistant!

How to Be a Good Second Shooter

First off, it needs to be said that what it takes to be a good second shooter will largely depend on the needs of the primary photographer. This is something that should be discussed between the two of you. Additionally, through the experience of working together, you will naturally figure out what their needs and expectation. Hopefully in time, the two of you will work cohesively with little direction. When I first started out second shooting weddings in Los Angeles, I mostly worked with one person. After a while I just knew what he wanted from me: the perspectives he wanted covered, the types of shots he needed, etc. We were in sync and I didn’t need any direction. So although needs will vary, the following information should be universal.

Remember That You Represent The Primary Photographer

When second shooting you are representing the studio of the primary photographer. Be sure to carry their business card and conduct yourself in a professional manner. In just about no circumstance should you ever share your own card. Even if you are giving someone your card for something unrelated to photography, I recommend just steering clear of it all together. It is best to just avoid any confusion.

What is a Second Photographer’s Job?

In the early days of digital photography, cameras were only equipped with one memory card. This of course put the primary photographer at a lot of risk of losing a day of work. In part, as a second photographer shooting weddings, my job was essentially to have a backup of the day. This was also a bit of a hold over from the film days in which you could lose an entire roll from user error to a mistake at the lab.

What Should a Second Photographer Focus On

What a second shooter should focus on will depend entirely on the needs of the primary photographer. This can also vary case by case. Lets talk about some examples:

Wedding Photography

At a wedding a second photographer’s job is often to capture alternate perspectives that a primary photographer just can’t. No matter how fast you can run, you can not be in two places at once and there are some specific examples in which you will need to be. One such example is during a first kiss. When I started out as a second photographer shooting weddings in Los Angeles, during the first kiss, I was always instructed to get over the shoulder shots of the groom, while the main photographer focussed on shots of the bride. Afterward, I was freed up to do more creative stuff.

During the cocktail hour, I was always instructed (eventually it didn’t need to be said) to photograph groups of people (crowd work), while the primary photographer photographed the reception room and detail shots.

When the primary photographer is shooting formals, a common task given to a second photographer can be to shoot candids of individuals in formal groups. These are often shot at a 45 degree angle from them, NOT over the shoulder of the main photographer. You should never be shooting over the shoulder of the main wedding photographer. This can cause confusion over which camera to look at and why would their client need multiples of the same shot only slightly inferior?

Event Photography

As a Los Angeles event photographer, there are times I hire second photographers. However, unlike at a wedding, their job is typically to cover what I am unable to. This can be due to multiple conferences happening at once and that sort of thing.

Large jobs can also call for a second photographer just to add extra coverage. Typically this is the case for events larger than 400 people.

Miscellaneous Tips on Second Shooting

When it comes to usage rights, be sure to have that discussion with the photographer you’re working for. Usually it is understood that you are in part second shooting for experience and to build a portfolio, but do not assume anything!

Always carry the business card of the photographer you’re working with and never give out your own. Even if it is for something unrelated to photography, you do not want any misunderstandings. You represent the main shooter, side dealing is not ok.

This may seem harmless, but it’s not a good idea to show the client the back of your camera to see an image. For all you know, for whatever reason, the main photographer might decide not to deliver that image to the client. This will lead to difficult questions from the client. They may even begin to wonder how many other images they chose not to share and open a whole can of worms. I know it is hard to say no to someone asking to see an image, but there are many polite and reasonable tactics you can use to avoid it.

Conclusions on Being a Second Photographer

I really hope the video at the top of this article as well as this write up gives you an idea of why you should second shoot, but gives you some general advice on how to go about doing so.

For me, second shooting at weddings in Los Angeles was an invaluable learning experience on top of being a great way to build a portfolio. I strongly encourage all beginner photographers to do so!

Los Angeles Red Carpet Photographer

The above video goes into great detail on how to photograph a step and repeat or red carpet, but you can see a transcript below! Thanks for watching.

Event Photographers,

Today I am going to talk about how to photograph a step and repeat. As an event photographer, unless you’re sticking to small, family type events, inevitably you will be asked to cover one. This may be as a dedicated photographer stationed at one throughout the night or part of a much larger event like the one we are currently watching

When I started out as an event photographer,I didn't really have a template available to me- I had to figure it out on my own, so today I am going to give you as much information as possible. Now, there is no “correct” way to photograph one and there are many ways to do it, but there are some pitfalls to be aware of and some things you actually can do wrong.

The first thing I recommend is arriving early so that you can fire a few test shots off. At the event we are currently watching, I was able to catch the guy setting lights up and was able to work with him to better position the lights. He initially had them aimed toward the top of the backdrop which would have led to uneven light on my subjects, shadows, and no catch light. 

Of course I could have worked with this, but if you always want to work with the best possible situation. I would have preferred we got the lights a bit more spread out, but as you can see, there is a designated area taped off that I wanted to respect. 

Next it was time to fire off a few test shots. What I recommend is using a flash as your key light, or main light, and use the continuous lights as fill. I usually start out doing my test shots without a flash and dial in a proper exposure for my fill lights at about F4 which is what most of my shots will be made at. I keep my ISO reasonably high so that my flash isn’t working too hard and once that’s dialed in, I dial in the proper exposure compensation on my flash unit. You have to remember that like your camera, when using TTL, your flash is exposing for middle grey. So you need to properly compensate for that. In this particular situation, my backdrop is black and I knew most people would be wearing darker than middle grey clothing. I don’t remember exactly where I ended up, but I know it was somewhere between minus 1 and minus 3/4 stops. 

Whether you bounce your light or use a modifier to diffuse your light doesn’t significantly matter. At this particular event the rear corner of the room is pretty far from me, so I chose to use a diffuser. 

Now it is important to acknowledge that for larger groups, I increase my F stop, but because my strobe is actually my key light, it doesn't affect the overall look of my images and they stay consistent. The only thing that would significantly change that is if a large group of people all wearing white filled my frame. In that situation, I would simply adjust my exposure compensation.

I hate editing and I worry about recycling time on my flash, so I try to make every shot count. I usually shoot no more than 3-4 images of groups unless they are VIPs. I mitigate blinking eyes by being mindful while I shoot, monitoring for blinks and by giving my subjects a countdown before I press the shutter.

There are a few different traditional crops I use depending on the backdrop. If the backdrop has branding on the top, like the title of the event, I am mindful to get a shot that includes that. 

I typically do not do full body shots unless it's called for, such as at a Hollywood premiere. Non profit events are typically not about what people are wearing. 

I shoot with a neutral perspective. I find that I’m a good height that's not too short for taller groups and not too tall that I'm not able to hunch over to shoot head on with a shorter group.

For horizontal shots, I line up my subjects eye line 1/3 of the way down from the frame and I'm always careful not to crop at the hands. 

It’s also important you give proper breathing room on the sides of the frame. You do not want claustrophobic compositions and one thing you might not have considered is that if someone prints an 8x10 of a tightly framed group, you risk cropping off people at the shoulder, further cramping your composition.

The lens and focal length I use depends on where I’m stationed, but 99 percent of the time I am shooting with a 24-70. I try to keep my focal lengths as high as possible to avoid distortion on the wide ends and only rarely have to switch to my 17-40 to get everyone in the shot. 

After a get my necessary shots, I always give a big smile, make eye contact and thank everyone. This keeps people moving along so that my line doesn’t build up. Luckily at the event we are watching, I also have helpers that guide traffic and keep things running smoothly. 

Typically there are some moments in which I’m just standing around as well as a crazy rush, but usually I’m kept too busy to shoot anything else. If, however I do attempt to cover both a step and repeat as well as roam around, if lighting conditions are different enough, I take advantage of saved custom settings. 


Event Photography Tips on Buying Gear from a Los Angeles Event Photographer

Aspiring event photographers,

Making a full time living as an event photographer is not easy. When I started out as an event photographer in Los Angeles, there wasn’t really a template to follow. That’s why I share as much knowledge as possible via my blog and Youtube channel. My hope is that this sort of content will ease your anxiety and make your journey easier.

I hope you enjoy this video on buying gear for event photography.

Buying Camera Bodies for Event Photography

When you decide to go pro at event photography you are starting a business. You have to remember that camera bodies are depreciating assets and the cost of constantly upgrading them means you are making less money. Additionally, If you are still early in the learning phase, by the time you know the ins and outs of your very expensive camera, it will have depreciated significantly in value and there will be better options out there with more modern technology.

My advice to event photographers just starting out would be to buy last generation’s model of whatever camera you’re interested in, whether new or used. Cameras experience most of their depreciation right away followed by a very large reduction in price once a new version comes out. After that they somewhat level off again. You can save a significant amount of money by buying old models once the new ones come out. Once in a while new camera models significantly improve upon the last model’s tech, but these days a generation old camera is still a very capable camera. I follow an “every other” upgrade cycle which has suited me well. I personally still use a Canon 5d iii as my main camera and its nearly 8 years old! It’s almost hard to believe it has been that long.

Use the money you save to start building your lens collection. Remember lenses make images more so than cameras. Additionally, unlike cameras, lenses hardly depreciate in value.

Which Professional Lenses You Should Buy First for Event Photography

Your first goal should be to cover all necessary focal lengths. This can be done with two lenses. The first lens you should buy is a 24-70mm lens. This lens will give you a somewhat wide to somewhat zoomed in field of view. Most events could be shot entirely with this lens. It’s great for candids, portraits, group shots, detail shots, and even somewhat wide establishing shots.

The second lens I recommend buying is a 70-200mm. These focal lengths are essential for a lot of different types of event photography from varying sports, conferences and anytime you need more reach with your lens.

Please note that when shooting with those lenses on a cropped frame camera body, those focal lengths will have the field of view of a 36-105 and 105-300 and may not be as suitable if you need a very wide field of view.

Once you have your main focal lengths covered with a 24-70mm and 70-200mm lens, the next lens I recommend getting would be on the wide end. I personally use a 17-40mm f4 lens when I need to get wider than 24mm. Canon also makes a superior 16-35mm lens, but for how I use a wide lens, its just not necessary. I am typically photographing larger groups or wide “establishing shots” which require a deeper depth of filed than f2.8 would offer to properly get everyone or most things in focus. When making lens choices, remember that you're building a photography business and therefore it is helpful to think of purchases as business expenses in which cost vs benefit should be weighed. I estimate that my 17-40mm lens is on my camera less than 5% of the time at most. It is still a necessary lens for what I do, but not worth upgrading. I used to have a fisheye lens. Take a guess how often I used that and why I sold it.

Buying Memory Cards

You can save money by not buying memory cards with larger storage capacities. Two 32 gig cards for example typically cost far less than one 64 gig card. But be sure to buy quality memory cards with fast read / write speeds. Do the research and make sure to buy the fastest memory cards recommended for your camera by it’s manufacturer. This will make a difference. Buying higher specced cards than what’s recommended may not make a difference. It would be like putting premium gas in a car not designed for it. I also recommend buying fast cards for their upload speeds. This will shorten your editing process.

Buying a Flash

When I started as a photographer there was no viable alternative to a Canon branded flash. It was essentially a two horse race then, with Nikon as Canon’s only competition. But since then, off brand manufacturers have closed the gap in the quality of their flashes for a fraction of the cost. Canon’s latest flagship flash the 600EX II-RT goes for $579 at full price. Meanwhile the Yongnuo YN600 RT-II comes in at $121. It’s essentially a Canon clone (It’s even named similarly. Don’t ask me how that’s legal), and costs less than a fourth the price.

Personally, I own two Canon flashes, but would not have a problem with purchasing a third party flash as another backup at some point.

How a Los Angeles Event Photographer Uses Composition to Enhance His Candids

Tips on Composition to Enhance Your Candids

Into

Composition can amplify what you feel about the subject matter or invoke a reaction all on its own. Today I’m going to share with you 5 tips on composition to enhance your candids. These are all tips I use as a candid event photographer in Los Angeles as well as in my street photography.

#1 Use a Dutch Angle.

The dutch angle, also known as a dutch tilt, canted angle, or oblique angle is when the horizontal or vertical lines of an image are tilted. In cinema, it is often used to convey anxiety, tension, or things gone awry, but incorporating a dutch angle into your candid photography you can give the viewer a sense that it was captured in the spur of the moment.

The Dutch angle is an effective tool for enhancing the candid feel of a moment, but should be used sparingly. Especially in a collection of images in which its strength lies in it being an outlier, not a norm


Fun Fact:

The Dutch angle coinage does not refer to holland. It is fact a reference to early German, or rather “Deutch” expressionist filmmakers.


#2 Shoot Through things to Frame Your Subject 

When it comes to photographic composition, framing is most often used to draw your eye in toward your subject. But when shooting through things it has the added effect of conveying a shot was made in the spur of the moment or that the photographer was somewhat removed from the moment like a fly on the wall. From my point of view, this has become an increasingly popular technique used by event photographers. I have also begun to see this more commonly used by photojournalists: Think of photographs of campaign rallies in which the photographer shoots through a crowd of people and political signs to get a photograph of a politician on stage.

#3 Use a Tilt Shot to Shoot from Extreme High and Low Angles.

Shooting from high or low angles not only offer varied perspectives but also convey different meaning. 

Images made from below convey importance, prominence, power. Try shooting from below when photographing a powerful politician, a local hero, or anyone you want to portray as strong, etc. Personally, I often choose to photograph the downtrodden and disenfranchised this way as a way of dignifying them.

Images made from above tend to evoke opposite feelings about a subject than shooting from below. Shooting from above can convey a sense of powerlessness, weakness, etc. You can use this technique to highlight the downtrodden or perhaps even as a way to visually dis-empower someone whom has plenty of it. The choice is yours. As my lab instructor in college used to tell me, “you’re the artist.”

Carefully consider how you use these angles. Yes, they can be used to just offer something different, but when used effectively they can amplify the feelings already conveyed in the subject matter.

Sometimes I’ll sit on my skateboard in busy places and go unnoticed. I especially enjoy photographing candid moments that look like they could have been posed. 

#4 Don’t Be so Clinical with Your Composition.   

Rules of composition are excellent tools for creating visual interest and drawing viewers draw your subject matter. But sometimes when several rules of composition are utilized at once, your composition can feel a bit too on the nose. This feels clinical and has the potential to feel contrived or lifeless- not candid.

I recommend experimenting with shooting a bit looser. Try adhering to fewer rules, or make sure the rules you do follow are less obvious.

You can argue that well balanced visual elements underpin the foundation of a strong composition. For example, in a composition using the rule of thirds, the subject matter occupying one third of the frame is balanced out by the two thirds of less important real estate.

Balanced elements should not be confused with symmetry: if, for example,  you have an object of a specific size on one side of the frame you mustn’t have one on the other.  We are not looking for equally sized objects or like colors to achieve balance. Rather, we are looking at the overall visual weight of things. Certain colors and shades will draw your eye in different ways. Something small but of more importance such as a person can be balanced out by something much larger but less important.

I admit the idea of visual weight can sound a bit murky. 

But Try this:

One way to see how things are visually weighed is to defocus your eyes. See where your eye is drawn without the distraction of textures and subject matter.

#5 Be Unconventional. Break the Rules.

There are traditional ways to frame formal portraits whether candid or not. These traditions are in part formed by adhering to specific rules of composition such as the rule of thirds. But beyond rules of composition, we are used to a visual language developed by over a century of image making.  

Experiment with breaking these norms. Try unusual cropping or usage of rules. Instead of having leading lines lead toward your subject, have them lead away. Subjects tend to look inward in a frame. Try having them look outside the frame and see how it makes you feel. 

If you are looking for an example of how to effectively break rules, one of my favorite examples is Mr Robot. Do yourself a favor and check it out.


Thank you all for your support, I truly hope this helps you on your photographic journey. And as always I look forward to your comments below! 




Event Photography Tips and Tricks (6 Shot Types)

Below is a List of your Main Shot Types when Shooting an Event

As an event Photographer in Los Angeles, I use all of these shot types in my work.

Establishing shots:

You do not need many of these. A few wide shots are essential to give a sense of place and establish scale at an event. I will typically shoot these at 17mm with my 17-40mm lens. I try to get a shot from several different perspectives. Shots like these can be each corner of a banquet hall, a wide shot of a crowd from

Close Candids:

These are the shots that really capture the emotional high points of an event. They can be shot in a variety of ways, but usually with a telephoto lens and a shallow depth of field in order to focus the viewers reaction on the emotion of the shot.

Candid Interactions:

Similar to close candids, candid interactions but provide context to the moment you are highlighting. In other words you can see the person or persons the subject is interacting with. You will typically want to stop down your aperture a bit for these to allow each of your subjects to be in focus.

Posed Photos:

Sometimes you will shoot posed portraits of an individual, but most of the time posed portraits are of groups of two or more. These are simple to do. Anytime you see a small group conversing, approach them with a smile and simply ask, “hey can I get a shot of you guys?” These should be shot at narrow enough apertures to capture everyone in focus. F2.8 or lower can work depending on distance, focal length, and how similarly distanced they are to you, but a rule of thumb I use is to shoot at f4 or higher to capture groups of three or more. I usually do not feel the need to go any higher unless the group is somewhat staggered in distance from me.

Portraits:

These can be a professional headshot or something more artistic. Once in a while, you may be asked to shoot one of a notable speaker or such. But usually, I’m shooting these for myself. It gives me an opportunity to work more intimately with someone, get creative in a different way than I spend most of my time shooting, and a fun way to build a portfolio.

Detail Shots:

There are many ways to shoot detail shots. I have shot these with a 24-70mm lens, 70-200mm lens, 50mm vintage lenses, 135mm lens and more. These shots will compliment your wider establishing shots to tell a story. Details matter at an event; Organizers put in a lot of work to produce an event of any size with many details to show for it. When photographing an event put on to showcase a product, the product should be your focus. That said, be sure to get shots of attendees interacting with the product. You should always discuss what your client is looking for, but this will most likely be it. Although a photographer’s job is in part to capture details, their focus should typically be on capturing defining moments. These moments tell a story and evoke a feeling regardless of the type of event. Every photograph delivered should be about something. It can be about an emotion, someone’s reaction, or an interaction between people, but there should be meaning behind each image. These highlights offer a window into what it was like to be there. Always shoot with intention and never raise your camera to your eye just to snap a shot. Event organizers and marketers do not need thousands of lousy images, they need photographs they can actually use. At private events people want emotion filled images that bring them back to a moment. Capturing the height of an expression can be a ringing reminder of exactly how they felt in that moment.

I have been a professional event photographer and photography instructor in Los Angeles for over 10 years. Click on the button below to see my event photography work.

Los Angeles Event Photographer Tips and Tricks (advanced)

I hope you find these event photography tips helpful. They are based on over 10 years of professional experience as an event photographer in Los Angeles. These event photography tips and tricks have mostly been developed through practice and developing habits, but I also spend a great deal of time working on my craft. I am always trying to improve my event photography and I hope these help you do the same!

Event Photography Tip #1 Pre Select Your Focal Point.

When capturing a moment as an event photographer, rather than waiting for the viewfinder to reach your eye, consider where the point of focus will be in your composition and use your controller to set it. With practice this becomes intuitive. Keep in mind, that with evolving technology, this tip may become less or even irrelevant. Sony's eye AF, is a good example of technology that may replace the skill of pre-selecting your autofocus point. Also, as I am currently experimenting with new cameras, I want to mention that the delay in which the viewfinder activates in mirrorless cameras has been a challenge for me, in some cases preventing me from pre-selecting my focus point before looking through the viewfinder.

Event Photography Tip #2 Photograph With Both Eyes.

While one eye frames the shot, use your other eye to monitor the action. This technique improves your timing and you’re able to monitor the space while still framing a potential image. When covering an event, the goal should be to both get as much coverage as possible, but also to make sure each image is a quality one.

Event Photography Tip #3 Read the Room. Follow the Energy.

This is not hocus-pocus. Do not overthink it. Whether at an event or anywhere for that matter, there is always energy. There are plenty of auditory cues that give away where the energy is but there may be things that give it away that you are not even conscious of.

Event Photography Tip #4. Predict Smiles.

Have you learned to follow the energy? Good. Now it's time to predict a smile. watch the eyes and anticipate the pause- that is when you should be making your photograph. Of all my tips, I think your ability to implement this one may largely come down to personality traits. Not everyone will have as easy of a time predicting a smile. I do think that with practice, anyone can improve, but this is a skill highly determined by one's empathy.

Event Photography Tip #5. Time Your Shot Ahead of the Peak of Action.

You have a delay. Your motor skills have a delay. Your camera has a delay. Because of this, it is essential that you time your shot right before the peak of action. This is a tricky one. Of course shooting a burst of shots with a camera with a high FPS would help, but if your goal is to improve on your skills as an event photographer, it’s well worth it to practice this.


Did you find these tips helpful? Looking for a more complete and thorough guide on event photography? Check out my A-Z Guide to Becoming an Event Photographer!

17 Event Photography Tips You Need to Know to Get Started from an Experienced Event Photographer in Los Angeles

17 of my top tips and tricks to help you get started as an event photographer! All part of my 40 minute and nearly 4k word Event Photography Guide

Read More

5 Beginner Photography Mistakes from a Los Angeles Photography Instructor

Beginner Mistakes Photographers Make (5 things)

1. The first mistake people often make is looking at what other photographers are doing.

Note: I am a Los Angeles event photographer, photography instructor, and artist. But this is general advice for anyone just starting out, no matter what you’re photography interests.

First, I want to say that This can actually do some good: Looking at the work of others can be a good way to get inspiration and to raise your standard of what is possible.

So, what’s the problem?

When everyone looks at what other photographers are doing, their work all starts to look the same. This is obviously something you should avoid. Rather, you should find a way to Be authentic: Figure out what you want to say and do it your own way. Find your inspiration where no one else is looking. Do not limit yourself to what your contemporaries are doing.

My recommendation is to Look at the classic masters of photography for inspiration or even completely different genres of art. You might think that the best way to this is by searching online, but the best way to find what you’re looking for is by checking out old books. I recommend hitting your library and used bookstores up. I personally have a secret spot I buy photography books all the time from for as little as 6 dollars

2. The second beginner photography mistake is thinking that gear matters.

If you think better gear will make you a better photographer you’re wrong. If you're thinking ,“I could do this or that that someone else is doing if I just had that lens or whatever, you're making excuses for not shooting. IF ANYTHING limitations make you a better photographer. It forces you to find creative solutions and to work harder.

Back in the day when I had the original Canon 5d, I did not upgrade to the 5dii. I worked with the limitations of the 5d classic and it arguably made me a better photographer. It sucked in low light, so i had to learn clever ways to use my strobes. Its autofocus and burst rate was slow so my timing had to be spot on. By the time the 5diii came out its lowlight performance and focus system was a game changer but to this day I wonder if my timing was better shooting with a 5d original.

The last three examples are all closely related

3. The third mistake photographers make is not respecting the craft.

I’m not just talking about neglecting the technical stuff like shutter speed and aperture. I’m talking about the concepts behind it all so that you’re not memorizing or mimicking set techniques. You should drive toward having a deep understanding of the art form- its past and its historical context.

4. The Fourth mistake people make is not having a photography teacher.

Most people need a teacher. In my experience there are very few who can read a book or watch

youtube and repeat what they’ve learned. I’m not saying you need to go to school or mentor under a photographer, but if you’re not truly able to teach yourself you need a teacher. I did photography all throughout high school and college and to be honest I didn't learn much but at least I had a foundation. Afterward I mostly taught myself, but when I decided to start shooting professionally i didn't have the arrogance to think I knew everything there was to know. Regrettably I started off by shooting weddings as a second shooter and that experience was incredibly valuable. It doesnt matter where you get your education from but if you can't be self taught you need a teacher.

5. The Fifth mistake photographers make is lacking life experience.

Without life experience, it can be difficult to make meaningful art.

So:

Go live your life.

Get inspired AND NOT BY LOOKING AT OTHER PEOPLE'S WORK.

Find your voice

Go on a journey! And most importantly...

Introspect!

See how I have applied these lessons by clicking below.


How to Photograph Celebrities

In this video I talk about my experience photographing celebrities in Los Angles and give my tips on how to do it. I also talk about photographing celebrities on film and how I bring a film camera to every job. I hope you guys find this helpful and/or entertaining!

Successfully photographing celebrities comes down to this simple thing: They’re just people. All people deserve to be treated as such and no one should be treated in a special way just because they’re a celebrity.

I have been a professional event photographer in Los Angeles for over 10 years . I also teach photography at Barnsdall Art Center. Follow the links below to see my work.

Instagram | @retrograding https://www.instagram.com/retrograding/ Facebook | https://www.facebook.com/mikmilman/ www.mikmilman.com Instagram | @retrograding https://www.instagram.com/retrograding/ Facebook | https://www.facebook.com/mikmilman/

My New Favorite Black and White Film AGFA APX 25

AGFA APX 25

AGFA APX 25 is my new favorite film! Will I use it often? Probably not. Since it's been discontinued for some time now, I am going to cherish what I have left. Although the results when developed in Diafine were unremarkable, this film truly shines in Rodinal. Personally, this is the finest grained film with the best tonal range of anything I have shot so far. I will probably save what I have left for select personal projects and for my work as an event photographer in Los Angeles.

Let me know your thoughts! I have been a professional event photographer in Los Angeles for 10 years while teaching photography at the same time.

Follow the links below to see my work.

Instagram | @retrograding https://www.instagram.com/retrograding/

Facebook | https://www.facebook.com/mikmilman/

Instagram | @retrograding https://www.instagram.com/retrograding/

Facebook | https://www.facebook.com/mikmilman/ www.mikmilman.com

Anscomark M Film Camera. First Impressions.

Anscomark M Film Camera

The Anscomark M is the sturdiest camera I have ever held. "Built like a tank," is one of the most overused expressions when it comes to cameras, but it really does apply here; We are talking WWI era tank to be clear ;) This camera is feature-full from built in selenium light meter, threaded cable release hidden below the shutter button, to it's interchangeable lenses. Unfortunately it can be very hard to find lenses for this camera if you can even find the camera at all. I am looking forward to shooting with this camera and I'm very excited to share my results with you all!

My First Impressions

I picked this camera up just because of how strange it appeared. I knew very little about it and to be honest when I find a new camera I’ve never heard about, I prefer to experience it before doing my research. That’s not to say I do not research it at all: I just do enough research to know what I’m getting into.

The first thing that stood out is the Anscomark m’s styling: It is unlike any camera I have ever seen. This camera resembled a 1960’s classic American car more than any other camera.

When it comes to it’s build quality, there’s something very unique here too… rather than having the feel of a well engineered watch like a Leica M 3, the Anscomark M feels more like an industrial toaster or classic car. It feels substantial and heavy. It has hard lines and edges, not something you’d typically see in something you would be handling often.

That’s it for now, but I’m really excited to start using the camera and sharing my thoughts.

I have been a professional event photographer for 10 years while teaching photography at the same time. Follow the links below to see my work. Instagram | @retrograding https://www.instagram.com/retrograding/ Facebook | https://www.facebook.com/mikmilman/ www.mikmilman.com Instagram | @retrograding https://www.instagram.com/retrograding/ Facebook | https://www.facebook.com/mikmilman/ www.mikmilman.com

Los Angeles Event Photography: Shooting Detail Shots with a 400mm Lens

If you’ve been reading my event photography blog or following my Youtube channel on event photography, you probably know how important I believe it is to stay engaged with your craft, and to try new things in order to keep things interesting and avoid burnout. At a recent event in Malibu California, I did just that.

Using my Canon m50, a vintage 400 millimeter lens as well as a Minolta MC Rokkor - PF f1.4 lens and a Canon FD 50mmm macro lens, I decided to challenge myself to not only use vintage, manual focus lenses to make interesting detail shots, but to also to also use a Canon m50, a non professional grade camera.

As always, I showed up to my job early- very early. This allowed me to get all of my “safe” detail shots, with plenty of time to experiment after.

I use a variety of lenses when shooting detail shots, but usually I use the Canon 24-70mm f2.8, Canon 135mm f2, and the Canon 85mm 1.8. Like I said, I shoot “safe” first and only use available light or a single strobe. In this case, there was plenty of beautiful diffused light to work with.

After getting all the safe shots, first I switched over to the Canon FD 50mm Macro. This has been an incredibly fun lens for me to use. I don’t actually own a modern macro lens. Honestly, as an event photographer, I don’t really need to. But I have found that it has allowed me to really open up my mind to new possibilities when it comes to shooting detail shots: the ability to get really close allowed me to shoot details of the details, which I quite enjoyed. A quick note: you do not need to shoot close up with a macro lens. They can of course be used as a regular old lens if you choose.

Next I decided to try using my Minolta mount 400mm telephoto lens. Adjusting for the Canon M50’s crop, this is a 600mm lens… without image stabilization. Because of this, and my desire to shoot wide open, I found it an incredibly difficult lens to pull focus with. But when I was able to pull it off, it definitely created a unique look due to its compression.

Lastly, I shot with an old school Minolta MC Rokkor - PF f1.4 lens. I love this lens. In all honesty it’s not super sharp wide open, but I honestly don’t mind it. I love making images that have a unique look. I’m not one for arbitrarily stylizing my images just to make them look different, but using vintage lenses to get a different look works for me.

Interested in seeing some vintage glass compared?

Comparing Vintage Lenses on the Canon M50


I have been a professional Los Angeles event photographer and photography instructor for over 10 years. Follow the links below to see my work and be sure to subscribe to my channel on Youtube for more videos

YOUTUBE

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How to Use an External Camera Flash // Part 2

Part Two of How to Use an External Camera Flash

In this video I focus on how to properly use modifiers and bounce your flash for more pleasing results. I use all of these techniques in my event photography work, but they are applicable to anything. Watch the video below for more information. I also wrote the main points in the continuation of this article.

No Modifier, Flash Pointed Forward

Unless you’re going for a 90’s disposable camera aesthetic, this is the worst way you can use your flash. It creates a very flat image as it lacks tonality due to the flash coming being positioned on axis with your lens. Directional light creates depth. Lighting without direction looks flat. The effect is especially noticed on faces in which this sort of light creates what I call a “frog face” look, as people’s features are flattened and blown out.

Bouncing Your Flash Off of the Ceiling and Using a Fill Card

This is my least favorite way to bounce light, but it works. You simply aim your flash upward in order to bounce light down onto your subject. This bounced light will be softer and larger than light directly from your flash/strobe unit. The fill card has the effect of adding a catch light in the eyes of your subject. Without this, you can potentially get the “dead eyes” look in which eyes appear lifeless due to not having a light source reflected in them.

Bouncing Your Flash Off of the Corner of a Room

This is my favorite way of using my flash. It allows for a natural gradation of light to cascade across your subject, adding depth. Using your flash in this way also has the effect of more evenly falling across the ambient environment, crating a more balanced, and therefore natural look.

Bouncing Your Flash Off of a Wall Directly to Your Side

This is a technique I don’t use often, but to great effect when I do. By bouncing my strobe off of a white wall immediately to the side of me and my subject, I am able to get a giant softbox like effect. This large window of light has a more studio like look I love when appropriate.

Using a Light Modifier (Any Defuser)

This is my least favorite way to diffuse my light. It gets the job done in that it creates a softer, more flattering light. But what I don’t like is that it lacks direction, which creates a flatter look. However, when there are no walls to bounce light off of, this is your only way to go…for the most part. The way I solve this problem is by hand holding my flash and triggering it from my camera. This can be a goofy way to work, having to hand hold your flash in one hand and your camera in the other, but it does create very pleasing results. You’re essentially creating a Rembrandt light setup.

I have been a professional photography work for 10 years while teaching photography at the same time. Follow the links below to see my work and be sure to subscribe to my channel on Youtube for more videos

YOUTUBE

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www.mikmilman.com